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        Herculaneum/naples  
		21 sept.   
      we are up early and decide to brave the autrostrada 
      again.  with a staggering number of helpful signs everywhere, we end 
      up in a narrow little road that unbelievably takes us directly to 
      Herculaneum. so overwhelmed by the numbing lack of traffic, absence of 
      tourists or their stupid buses and the ability to park absolutely 
      anywhere, we freak and drive a kilometre away and leave the beast on the 
      sidewalk with the hood up. there is only a slim chance it will still be 
      there when we get back, but if we drink enuf, it probably won't matter.
        
      
      
       
      
        
          
            
              
               Herculaneum 
              now found under the charming Naples suburb of Ercolano, was an 
              ancient Roman town destroyed, along with Pompeii, in the eruption 
              of Mount Vesuvius beginning on the afternoon of August 24, AD 79.  
              During the night, the column of volcanic debris which had risen 
              into the stratosphere, began falling back down onto Vesuvius. A 
              pyroclastic flow formed that sent a mixture of 400°C (750°F) gas, 
              ash, and rock racing down toward Herculaneum at 100 mph. At about 
              1 AM it reached the boat houses where its intense heat killed the 
              inhabitants within seconds. This flow and several following did 
              little damage to the structures, instead slowly filling the 
              structures from the bottom up.The 
              amazingly good state of preservation of the structures and their 
              contents was due to three factors: by the time the wind changed 
              and ash began to fall on Herculaneum, the structures were already 
              filled up and the roofs did not collapse; the intense heat of the 
              first pyroclastic flow carbonized the surface of organic materials 
              and extracted the water from them; and the deep (up to 25 meters), 
              dense tuff formed an airtight seal over Herculaneum for 1700 
              years.  
              After the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the town 
              of Herculaneum was buried under 50-60 feet (approx. 20 metres) of 
              lava, mud and ash. It laid hidden and nearly intact for more than 
              1600 years until it was accidentally discovered by some workers 
              digging a well in 1709.  However, once the nearby town of 
              Pompeii was discovered, which was significantly easier to excavate 
              due to the reduced amount of debris covering the site (four metres 
              as opposed to Herculaneum's twenty metres), digging stopped. In 
              the twentieth century, however, excavation once again resumed in 
              the town. However, many public and private buildings, including 
              the forum complex, are yet to be excavated 
              
               It 
              was long thought that nearly all of the inhabitants managed to 
              escape because initial excavations revealed only a few skeletons. 
              It wasn't until 1982 when the excavations reached boat houses on 
              the beach area that this view changed. In 12 boat houses 
              archaeologists discovered 250 skeletons huddled close together, of 
              varied age, sex, and class. The skeletons were preserved on the 
              seafront, where people had fled in an attempt to escape the 
              volcanic disaster, including the 'ring lady' who gives her name to 
              the house where she was found.   
              
                
                  
                    
                      The volcanic mud, ash and debris covering 
                      Herculaneum, along with the extreme heat, left it in a 
                      remarkable state of preservation for over 1500 years. 
                      However, once excavations began, exposure to the elements 
                      began the slow process of deterioration. This was not 
                      helped by the methods of archaeology used earlier in the 
                      town's excavation, which generally centered around 
                      recovering valuable artefacts rather than ensuring the 
                      survival of all artefacts. The carbonised remains of 
                      organic materials, when exposed to the air, deteriorated 
                      over a matter of days, and destroyed many of the remains 
                      until a way of preserving them was formed. Today, tourism 
                      and vandalism (huh?) has damaged many of the areas open to 
                      the public, and water damage coming from the modern 
                      Ercolano has undermined many of the foundations of the 
                      buildings. Reconstruction efforts have often proved 
                      counterproductive, however in modern times conservation 
                      efforts have been more successful. Today excavations have 
                      been temporarily discontinued, in order to direct all 
                      funding to help save the city....sure. that is why the 
                      place is covered with places to put garbage ( here in 
                      canada we call them 'waste receptacles'), the odd security 
                      guard ie to protect all of that ancient graffiti, blah 
                      blah blah. 
                   
                 
               
             
           
         
       
        
      
      click on a 
      picture to see a larger image. hit arrows at either end of the slideshow 
      for more pictures. 
      
we are about 1 km from herculaneum. we 'leave' the car on the sidewalk. l pray that at least some of it is left there when we get back      downtown naples, heading to herculaneum. your typical front/backyard in naples herculaneum with vesuvius in the background. look mid foreground and you can see almost 50 ft of ash separating old from new the only worker we see working....apparently 'repairing' the ruins. cool. this could have been my place if l was over 2000 years old and really rich. Herculaneum, Neptune and Amphitrite...the whole gang is here the main drag. it is stinking, hot... we find graffiti.....quite possibly original!....jim excitedly deciphers...his latin is much better than mine..."do not read the sign"...... on the way back to the car...praying, praying we are nearing where we think we've left the car...it is on the other side of the wall. praying, praying...  
 
we are about 1 km from herculaneum. we 'leave' the car on the sidewalk. l pray that at least some of it is left there when we get back       
 
 
      
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